Where My Heart Is

I left a piece of my heart in West Africa. 

COTE D'IVOIRE

The moment I got off the plane in Abidjan 12 years ago, I felt at home. Looking over the city from my hotel room I knew I was right where I needed to be. As we drove through the streets, the warm gentle breeze hit my face as if to say welcome home.

The Abidjan Skyline

I vividly remember feeling on top of the world. Literally! My hotel room was closer to the sky than the ground. For a young 22 year old, just out of university the experience was heavenly. I spoke my little French from years yonder in a bid to communicate with those around me, asking which was the best place for me to go and see. They called me a taxi and sent me off to the mall. Before the coming of Junction and Westgate mall, you know all I had to compare this mall to was our little Sarit Center. I walked in and out of the shops in amazement; my absolute favourite being Woodin and Vlisco. Surrounded left and right with tonnes of colourful fabric. I was in kitenge heaven! Still that wasn't my first buy. I walked into another shop and bought myself a pair of jeans. 23 dollars. That's what it cost me. (Toi Market would be ashamed). It wasn't even all that, BUT I was alone and had pocket money. Surely I could splurge on a random pair of jeans right? I remember taking the cab right back to my hotel room and watching countless hours of french TV too afraid to venture out at night unaccompanied; young and impressionable. I bid farewell to Abidjan two days later and proceeded to what would soon be my new home for a the next 6 months. 

SIERRA LEONE

River No 2 Beach In Freetown

Landing in post-conflict Freetown, I wondered what could have caused the wonderful people of Sierra Leone to turn on each other in such brutality. Of course years later in 2007, my countrymen did exactly the same and I understood the selfishness of leaders in Africa inciting their people against each other. Before I digress. The office sent a vehicle to pick me up and drop me on Wilkinson Road. A beautiful three bedroomed apartment was to be my home during my time there. I shared the apartment with another Kenyan lady and a Nigerian gentleman. Bintu, our wonderful house help would wake me up to a breakfast of champions each morning and send me off to bed with a chicken meal or other. Beef is rare in West Africa. It's all-you-can-eat chicken or bust! I spent my days being revered at the office. Madam Janet was my title there. Ignore the fact that I was at the bottom of the food chain of all the international staff there. A former tennis champion who was rebuilding his life working as a driver, helped me wile away my evenings learning tennis at the club and woke me up every Saturday for a jog along Lumley beach. One of my favourite days was spent watching the Sierra Leone Boys Band rehearse and later on attacking a lobster meal off of River No 2, by far the whitest sand and bluest ocean I've seen. Most notable (to all my single friends) was just how loving the men (generally in West Africa) are. They'd pick you up, open doors, cook the meals and make you feel like a queen. And it wasn't just because I was this hot Kenyan mama! (Okay, maybe a little). Walking barefoot in the sands of Number Two beach in Sierra Leone.. gazing over the clear blue waters of ocean... enjoying the magnificence that was life in Freetown.. I've never felt more at home. I left a piece of my heart in the friends I made, those I lost and those who refused to let go.

GHANA

And then years later in 2013, I rediscovered my love for West Africa when I got an opportunity to do some photography in Ghana. When the guy at immigration looked at my surname and said to me "it sounds very Ghanaian", I knew I was home again. Our host for the duration was as warm and as generous as they come. My dear Stephen whom I betrothed via long distance to my younger sister, is my friend for life. The first time I offered to pay for our lunch he quickly and firmly said "My sister, your money is no good here!" and proceeded to sort the bill. Travelling through the inner towns of Ghana, Koforidua being our base, we received the same warmth. Learning came to a standstill at every school we visited. Water was delivered promptly to quench our thirst. A quick meal of whatever was available was prepared and we gladly enjoyed the tastes of Ghana in every way possible, ending our trip with a meal of grilled guinea fowl! Yum! Forget quail! And as I walked through the streets of Accra, surrounded by pomp and colour, I remembered what I fell in love with 12 year ago. The warmth, the laughter, the music. The food! The people. A piece of my heart lives on in Ghana. In Accra before we left, we walked through the market looking for gifts for friends and family. It was there that I bought my mum an authentic Ankara fabric that she wore during the last family event she attended before she passed on. She loved it, just as much as I love my second home. West Africa.

I left a piece of my heart in West Africa. And I'm coming back for it. Look out for me Dakar. You are next on my list. As does The Gambia, Benin, Togo and Mali. I'm not done with you yet West Africa!